We have certainly had some excitement since arriving. We had no hot water having arrived at our new house so I tried to turn on the gas. There was an immediate gas smell throughout the house so I turned it off. It was an opportunity to meet the neighbour who came over and helped out. It was better but still a strong smell but at least now the hot water was working. We left all our windows open.
The next morning while I was away meeting my new HOD all the drama unfolded. A gas checker had been called in and announced our house at critical levels and at risk of exploding. He turned it all off and warned all the other neighbours. Another opportunity to meet the other neighbours, kind of. Sue frantically rang the Realty company and two hours later they had someone come through who fixed it all.
A little less exciting, I have been for two rides and met a number of cyclists. The hills are quite steep and I am well out of shape. Scott I think you would take me apart. Ironically one of the guys was talking about his school 'Kings'. I asked him if he knew Stephen Parry and he had had him as a teacher.
We had a great time at the Mold Baptist church. People throughout the area are very friendly. I must have asked 10 people for directions on my bike so far and they can't do enough for you. The area is a collection of villages with intertwining roads and a connecting motorway. It is very green everywhere you go. It is so unlike our previous stay in Manchester, it feels like a completely different county, which of course it is.
We also spent a nice afternoon walking through the Wepre Wood and exploring the remains of the Ewloe Castle.
This is the family blog of Henry, Suzanne, Sophia, Julia and Holly. It gives an account of our year long trip including visits to Thailand, Cambodia and Turkey.
Monday, 27 August 2012
Friday, 24 August 2012
In the UK
The journey from Istanbul to Chester was OK but full of minor hassles. Our Apartment provided us with a minivan and dropped us off at the airport in good time. We had had such a good time with Turkish Airlines the first time that I think our expectations were to high. Well anything other that rock bottom was to high.
It started with the ticket lady. Just not interested. I asked about seats (as we have kids) and she said briskly "later", only for two minutes later to be given our tickets without questions. I asked if we could get seats 2 and 3 and she said, not possible. We were the first at the counter for this flight. Anyway then we had a hassle with the weight of one of bags. Its amazing how a simple thanks and good morning can make an experience nicer. Next I had to get the bike paid for separately at another desk. As I was leaving a ten year old was in the way of the bike box. I asked her to move and little, and then again. She said something to me which I didn't pick up and looked at her mother only to get "well you are taking up so much space". A small altercation occurred.
At the over size counter I was informed that I was in the wrong place and moved to the right counter. When as I got the front of the queue I had not taken a number slip at the start and went back to get one and re-queue. This went better and I paid my money and went back to the ticket counter. Unfortunately I go the same woman who seemed in a slightly better mood this time. She slapped on a sticker and sent me to the over size trolley. A bit of a walk and when there, couldn't find it. Someone helped us and we were of to the immigration counter. From here it went much better. The Turkish staff just need to learn to smile or something. It makes all the difference.
Once on the plane we sat down and put our bags up. Ironically we needed to be moved because we had been seated next to an exit and kids can't sit there. We were moved but were no longer sitting next to each other. The cabin crew didn't seem that concerned but a very nice elderly muslin man offered to move with us.
Our flight went well and was relatively short, 4 hours. We landed in Manchester at 3pm and if we could get to Chester by 5.15pm we would be able to get into our new house. Otherwise we would not get in until Tuesday and have to stay in pokey Travel Lodge.
Once off the plane we rushed to the immigration line. There was no more rushing required. The line for UK/EU residents had at least 500 people in it. No exaggeration, with three immigration counters dealing with it. After 20 minutes we saw an e-passport line, much shorter, for those with a passport with a chip. We asked a wandering assistant if we could use it. He advised us we were in the wrong queue as even though our children had a right of abode stamp in their passport they had to go in the non-EU queue. Off we trudged. The queue was much shorter maybe 50 people but there were only 2 attendants and they were much slower. It was heading on to 4pm and the queue was half way through. It is a 50 minute drive to Harwarden where the Realtors were.
It pays when travelling to asks other travellers for help rather than airline/airport staff. Sue went to action and asked the people at the front of the queue if we could queue jump given our situation. They were happy (nice Spanish couple) and off we went until we reached the baggage collection. Because all the UK residence were still queuing their bags were going around and around so new bags could not be added. We got three of our five and waited. Two airport staff were pushing the bags together to create space, more bags added. After about 5 minutes we grabbed out 4th and a couple of minutes later we had our lot.
4.10pm and maybe we can still make it. We went off running, we took the "nothing to declare" passage way only to realise it was very narrow. At one point there was a no return sliding door to go through. I had to take the bike box off push it through and return for the trolley. The two sets of doors didn't seem to appreciate this and wouldn't work afterwards. Sue took the other set of doors.
Out in Arrivals we searched frantically for the sign "Henry Kersten" for our prearranged van. No sign of him. Sue was going to find his cell number and ask someone if she could borrow their phone. On my third search I found the driver outside a book shop holding up the sign stomach high. OK fine and we rushed off to his van. It was about 4.30pm when we left the airport and drove with vigor. We took the motorway and twice had to slow down for traffic congestion but luckily only for a couple of minutes.
We were so relieved to reach the Realtors at 5.15pm. They were still there and we just needed to sign a couple of forms.
Stephen Parry's parents met us here and gave us a great welcome. They even brought us some really nice food and drink for the next couple of days. We are going to meet them tomorrow so they can show us around some of the local sights.
So here we are in Harwarden in a great new house, surprisingly large back yard ready to take on our next adventure.
It started with the ticket lady. Just not interested. I asked about seats (as we have kids) and she said briskly "later", only for two minutes later to be given our tickets without questions. I asked if we could get seats 2 and 3 and she said, not possible. We were the first at the counter for this flight. Anyway then we had a hassle with the weight of one of bags. Its amazing how a simple thanks and good morning can make an experience nicer. Next I had to get the bike paid for separately at another desk. As I was leaving a ten year old was in the way of the bike box. I asked her to move and little, and then again. She said something to me which I didn't pick up and looked at her mother only to get "well you are taking up so much space". A small altercation occurred.
At the over size counter I was informed that I was in the wrong place and moved to the right counter. When as I got the front of the queue I had not taken a number slip at the start and went back to get one and re-queue. This went better and I paid my money and went back to the ticket counter. Unfortunately I go the same woman who seemed in a slightly better mood this time. She slapped on a sticker and sent me to the over size trolley. A bit of a walk and when there, couldn't find it. Someone helped us and we were of to the immigration counter. From here it went much better. The Turkish staff just need to learn to smile or something. It makes all the difference.
Once on the plane we sat down and put our bags up. Ironically we needed to be moved because we had been seated next to an exit and kids can't sit there. We were moved but were no longer sitting next to each other. The cabin crew didn't seem that concerned but a very nice elderly muslin man offered to move with us.
Our flight went well and was relatively short, 4 hours. We landed in Manchester at 3pm and if we could get to Chester by 5.15pm we would be able to get into our new house. Otherwise we would not get in until Tuesday and have to stay in pokey Travel Lodge.
Once off the plane we rushed to the immigration line. There was no more rushing required. The line for UK/EU residents had at least 500 people in it. No exaggeration, with three immigration counters dealing with it. After 20 minutes we saw an e-passport line, much shorter, for those with a passport with a chip. We asked a wandering assistant if we could use it. He advised us we were in the wrong queue as even though our children had a right of abode stamp in their passport they had to go in the non-EU queue. Off we trudged. The queue was much shorter maybe 50 people but there were only 2 attendants and they were much slower. It was heading on to 4pm and the queue was half way through. It is a 50 minute drive to Harwarden where the Realtors were.
It pays when travelling to asks other travellers for help rather than airline/airport staff. Sue went to action and asked the people at the front of the queue if we could queue jump given our situation. They were happy (nice Spanish couple) and off we went until we reached the baggage collection. Because all the UK residence were still queuing their bags were going around and around so new bags could not be added. We got three of our five and waited. Two airport staff were pushing the bags together to create space, more bags added. After about 5 minutes we grabbed out 4th and a couple of minutes later we had our lot.
4.10pm and maybe we can still make it. We went off running, we took the "nothing to declare" passage way only to realise it was very narrow. At one point there was a no return sliding door to go through. I had to take the bike box off push it through and return for the trolley. The two sets of doors didn't seem to appreciate this and wouldn't work afterwards. Sue took the other set of doors.
Out in Arrivals we searched frantically for the sign "Henry Kersten" for our prearranged van. No sign of him. Sue was going to find his cell number and ask someone if she could borrow their phone. On my third search I found the driver outside a book shop holding up the sign stomach high. OK fine and we rushed off to his van. It was about 4.30pm when we left the airport and drove with vigor. We took the motorway and twice had to slow down for traffic congestion but luckily only for a couple of minutes.
We were so relieved to reach the Realtors at 5.15pm. They were still there and we just needed to sign a couple of forms.
Stephen Parry's parents met us here and gave us a great welcome. They even brought us some really nice food and drink for the next couple of days. We are going to meet them tomorrow so they can show us around some of the local sights.
So here we are in Harwarden in a great new house, surprisingly large back yard ready to take on our next adventure.
Thursday, 23 August 2012
Back to Istanbul
Often people think the highlights or adventure are at the amazing sights that you go and see but I have come to realise that for me the best experiences often occur during the travel.
Today we had to drive our rental from Selcuk to Bursa by 12.30pm. So we left early at 6.20am to ensure the 400km trip was possible. Both Sue and I got a bad sleep. Sue because Holly had slept for hours in the afternoon and woke at midnight and I was concerned that I might not wake on time. I had set an online alarm clock but would the computer go into hibernation? I also had Sophia kicking me in the back periodically, must be in training for the English Autumn.
All went well however, and the road was good. No faulty lights and we enjoyed a McD's brunch on the way.
It can become disconcerting when cars use the double lanes to make corners easier and I avoided buses altogether when corners were approaching. The massive city of Bursa was rather exhilarating. Traffic moves indiscriminately and the rules regarding roundabouts, well there aren't any. Don't hit others and get through as quickly as possible.
I had had a small incident unmentioned till now when I had been leaving Bursa 4 days ago. We had hired the car 5 minutes earlier and Sue said to me "Look the GPS says it is going to shut down because of the batteries". I glanced down and then back up again to find a car parked in my lane. I slammed on the brakes (which didn't have ABS) and slid just touching the rare right of the car. I parked up and checked the side. A black mark and a very slight dent. The other driver arrived on the scene, said nothing was wrong and hooned off. But the good news to the story was that the rental agent never noticed it. He was still concerned about the disagreement over the empty to empty petrol policy and offered to drop us off at the bus depot. That was all good and my faith in the honesty of Turkish people was restored.
We quickly found a bus mostly full and piled on uncomfortably with all our bags. The driver was leaving as we dragged them on board. One of the passengers obviously noticed our discomfort and grabbed Julia onto her lap.
By the time we got to the ferry we were quite early. We settled into a park and had some food. It was really hot and I almost fell asleep under a tree.
It wasn't long before we were boarding the ferry and rushing towards Istanbul. We arrived there at 5.30pm with the hope of getting a ride from someone from our apartments. There was no one there so after ten minutes we tried to get a taxi. As we were only going a few kms they weren't keen. Luckily one which had just arrived took us and I gave him a sizeable tip as thanks.
It was 6.30pm by the time we settled back into our apartment. They have moved us into a smaller place but it is cooler. OK the toilet continually runs and never fills and the shower tap is broken and works like a very low bath. They did put the hot water on for us and the TV works.
Today we had to drive our rental from Selcuk to Bursa by 12.30pm. So we left early at 6.20am to ensure the 400km trip was possible. Both Sue and I got a bad sleep. Sue because Holly had slept for hours in the afternoon and woke at midnight and I was concerned that I might not wake on time. I had set an online alarm clock but would the computer go into hibernation? I also had Sophia kicking me in the back periodically, must be in training for the English Autumn.
All went well however, and the road was good. No faulty lights and we enjoyed a McD's brunch on the way.
It can become disconcerting when cars use the double lanes to make corners easier and I avoided buses altogether when corners were approaching. The massive city of Bursa was rather exhilarating. Traffic moves indiscriminately and the rules regarding roundabouts, well there aren't any. Don't hit others and get through as quickly as possible.
I had had a small incident unmentioned till now when I had been leaving Bursa 4 days ago. We had hired the car 5 minutes earlier and Sue said to me "Look the GPS says it is going to shut down because of the batteries". I glanced down and then back up again to find a car parked in my lane. I slammed on the brakes (which didn't have ABS) and slid just touching the rare right of the car. I parked up and checked the side. A black mark and a very slight dent. The other driver arrived on the scene, said nothing was wrong and hooned off. But the good news to the story was that the rental agent never noticed it. He was still concerned about the disagreement over the empty to empty petrol policy and offered to drop us off at the bus depot. That was all good and my faith in the honesty of Turkish people was restored.
We quickly found a bus mostly full and piled on uncomfortably with all our bags. The driver was leaving as we dragged them on board. One of the passengers obviously noticed our discomfort and grabbed Julia onto her lap.
By the time we got to the ferry we were quite early. We settled into a park and had some food. It was really hot and I almost fell asleep under a tree.
It wasn't long before we were boarding the ferry and rushing towards Istanbul. We arrived there at 5.30pm with the hope of getting a ride from someone from our apartments. There was no one there so after ten minutes we tried to get a taxi. As we were only going a few kms they weren't keen. Luckily one which had just arrived took us and I gave him a sizeable tip as thanks.
It was 6.30pm by the time we settled back into our apartment. They have moved us into a smaller place but it is cooler. OK the toilet continually runs and never fills and the shower tap is broken and works like a very low bath. They did put the hot water on for us and the TV works.
Wednesday, 22 August 2012
A Railway Museum, Greek Village and a Mediterranean Beach
I think we could easily spend a week here. There is so much to see. This morning we started by visiting a Railway Museum. Its hardly advertised and no one else seemed to know about it. It was one of those notes in the Lonely Planet and we thought it might be interesting for the kids. Man were we wrong, it was awesome for the kids.
We had problems finding it as it was off the main road and not sign posted. It had 30 locomotives in total, the oldest dating from 1887.
We next went to the Greek Mountain Village of Sirince arriving at about 1pm. In the 15th century a group of freed Greek slaves made their home here. It was so beautiful that they called it village Cirkince (Ugliness), to deter others from visiting, but later in 1926 the Governor renamed it Sirince (pleasantness). It lives up to it reputation, as it was very pretty. We parked in the large 100 car park, near the entrance. The streets we really quaint and narrow. After an hour the car park had filled up and visitors were trying to drive through the streets in search of parks. Talk about stressful.
Holly took a fancy to a dress and the woman took a fancy to Holly. It looked very nice on her and we got a good price. As we were leaving by 3pm cars were still pouring in with no where to park. All the way down the mountain we past traffic. It pays to get there early.
We ended the day by going to a local's beach. It was very nice but shallow to about 200m out. Perfect for the girls and very warm. Our thoughts are starting to turn to the UK now and our battle to take ownership of a rental when we arrive. News later.
We had problems finding it as it was off the main road and not sign posted. It had 30 locomotives in total, the oldest dating from 1887.
We next went to the Greek Mountain Village of Sirince arriving at about 1pm. In the 15th century a group of freed Greek slaves made their home here. It was so beautiful that they called it village Cirkince (Ugliness), to deter others from visiting, but later in 1926 the Governor renamed it Sirince (pleasantness). It lives up to it reputation, as it was very pretty. We parked in the large 100 car park, near the entrance. The streets we really quaint and narrow. After an hour the car park had filled up and visitors were trying to drive through the streets in search of parks. Talk about stressful.
Holly took a fancy to a dress and the woman took a fancy to Holly. It looked very nice on her and we got a good price. As we were leaving by 3pm cars were still pouring in with no where to park. All the way down the mountain we past traffic. It pays to get there early.
We ended the day by going to a local's beach. It was very nice but shallow to about 200m out. Perfect for the girls and very warm. Our thoughts are starting to turn to the UK now and our battle to take ownership of a rental when we arrive. News later.
Monday, 20 August 2012
Selcuk Town
There's more ancient sights around here than sneezes on a winters day. We headed the two kms into Selcuk but diverted towards Ephesus. It was our latest start by hours, 1pm. I had been for a run up towards Ephesus. I took a mountain trail after being assured that there are snakes, but they are safe, OK. The kids rested up and enjoyed the pool.
First we stopped at the Grotto of the Seven Sleepers. It is basically an underground massive tomb sight where legend has it seven persecuted Christians fled to, from Ephesus in the 3rd century AD, only for soldiers to seal the cave system. Two centuries later an earthquake opened the wall and they awoke from their sleep. Anyway it as a great site and easy to get at.
Next we went to town for lunch. We found a real nice place where the host had spent some time working in Gallipoli. Our view included a massive ancient viaduct crossing the town.
St. Johns Basilica where it is believed the Apostle John wrote the Gospel and is buried, is fantastic. Can anyone verify or rubbish this. The remains are fascinating. Built 1600 years ago. It puts the grandeur of Aya Sophia in perspective tho, as it was built at the same time.
At the rear of St. Johns you get a great view of the Citadel on the Ayasuluk Hill. It is currently not open as it is being restored. That didn't stop us from driving as near as we could get for a better look.
Also from the St Johns we looked down to one of the Seven Ancient Wonders of the World (well at least it was) the Temple of Artemis. Its for the fertility God so we moved on quickly.
Unfortunately now the photo below shows what is left.
It had been a great day and we went back to the Getaway for a quiet swim (I wish), and a relaxing beer.
First we stopped at the Grotto of the Seven Sleepers. It is basically an underground massive tomb sight where legend has it seven persecuted Christians fled to, from Ephesus in the 3rd century AD, only for soldiers to seal the cave system. Two centuries later an earthquake opened the wall and they awoke from their sleep. Anyway it as a great site and easy to get at.
Next we went to town for lunch. We found a real nice place where the host had spent some time working in Gallipoli. Our view included a massive ancient viaduct crossing the town.
St. Johns Basilica where it is believed the Apostle John wrote the Gospel and is buried, is fantastic. Can anyone verify or rubbish this. The remains are fascinating. Built 1600 years ago. It puts the grandeur of Aya Sophia in perspective tho, as it was built at the same time.
At the rear of St. Johns you get a great view of the Citadel on the Ayasuluk Hill. It is currently not open as it is being restored. That didn't stop us from driving as near as we could get for a better look.
Also from the St Johns we looked down to one of the Seven Ancient Wonders of the World (well at least it was) the Temple of Artemis. Its for the fertility God so we moved on quickly.
Unfortunately now the photo below shows what is left.
It had been a great day and we went back to the Getaway for a quiet swim (I wish), and a relaxing beer.
Ephesus (Efes)
It was late afternoon 5.30pm by the time we arrived here so it had cooled down nicely and most of the crowds had departed. The bus groups are the worst as they trundle along following a numbered and coloured board held aloft by a cheerful descriptive individual. You can't get past the masses and end up listening to a foreign language while trying to read a board.
Ephesus has to been seen to be believed. From the photos I had though there were only a couple of major buildings but there is a city still there. The Great Theatre was probably my favourite part as I was able to go up and down the seating and get on stage and try out the acoustics.
There are about three major roads still very usable and create an amazing ambiance as we strolled up from the south entrance up to the higher north entrance. This photo is of Curetes Way looking down towards the Library of Celsus.
The kids started waning about halfway through our 2.5hour tour of the place. They had spent 6 hours at the water park and were really tired. I think they would have been much worse in the morning tho as the heat and lack of shade would have been a killer. It was important to take a toilet stop ancient style.
We found the higher and smaller Odium where the city leaders met and musical performances were given. This was a chance for the girls to show their talents. Sue did a great speech but got shy in front of the camera.
Ephesus has to been seen to be believed. From the photos I had though there were only a couple of major buildings but there is a city still there. The Great Theatre was probably my favourite part as I was able to go up and down the seating and get on stage and try out the acoustics.
There are about three major roads still very usable and create an amazing ambiance as we strolled up from the south entrance up to the higher north entrance. This photo is of Curetes Way looking down towards the Library of Celsus.
The kids started waning about halfway through our 2.5hour tour of the place. They had spent 6 hours at the water park and were really tired. I think they would have been much worse in the morning tho as the heat and lack of shade would have been a killer. It was important to take a toilet stop ancient style.
We found the higher and smaller Odium where the city leaders met and musical performances were given. This was a chance for the girls to show their talents. Sue did a great speech but got shy in front of the camera.
On our return to the car we stopped to have a good look at the library of Celsus. It is obvious to see they took learning very serious. It is the best preserved building at Ephesus. It is amazing to think that a number of years ago most of this was just rubble. They have spent the last couple of decades putting it all back together.
It wasn't pretty by the time the kids got home today. Still they have had a good nights sleep and bounced back well.
Below is Harbour St where the water used to meet it only 500m down. The bay has silted up and the water retreated, which is why the city was abandoned eventually.
Adaland Water Park
Yesterday was probably our biggest sight seeing day yet. The kids actually slept in until 8.30am today. It started well, we had breakfast and were on our way to Ephesus by 8.30am. Its best to get there early to beat the massive crowds and heat. At the entrance there were sporadic cars and a few people. A man while trying to sell guide books informed people that because of the end of Ramadan the site did not open until 1pm. It was a snap decision and we were off to Adaland Water Park.
Adaland has so many slides that I don't think we need to go to any other water parks, or at least for a very long time. Its not cheap though with adults entering at 50Lira and kids for 40. Holly got in free. The great thing about this park is that almost all slides have a height restriction of 1.2m so Julia could do all the rides.
Again the kids pool was very nice and Holly spent most of her time there. The kids and I spent about 2 hours doing an initial go on all the slides.
Later we found a jet propelled slide which lifted you up and then came down by natural gravity. Holly was allowed on this one and it was difficult to get her off again. We also tricked Sue into doing a vertical drop slide. There were two next to each other very high up. We told her they were romantic rides as they were blue and pink. She only realised when she was being given her instructions and getting into an encased capsule. All ended well with just a few bruises.
Later there was the inevitable water party which the kids loved. They boogied away for about an hour. Lunch was quite nice and although prices are high here it is possible to feed a family of 5 with 3 meals. The meals came with bread and we bribed Julia with a Lira to go up and get a second plate.
The best part for me are the speed slides tho. Really fast and big splashes. We eventually left at 4.30pm after 6 hours of good entertainment. We were tired but went to Ephesus as it was evening and cool. But that is for the next post.
Adaland has so many slides that I don't think we need to go to any other water parks, or at least for a very long time. Its not cheap though with adults entering at 50Lira and kids for 40. Holly got in free. The great thing about this park is that almost all slides have a height restriction of 1.2m so Julia could do all the rides.
Again the kids pool was very nice and Holly spent most of her time there. The kids and I spent about 2 hours doing an initial go on all the slides.
Later we found a jet propelled slide which lifted you up and then came down by natural gravity. Holly was allowed on this one and it was difficult to get her off again. We also tricked Sue into doing a vertical drop slide. There were two next to each other very high up. We told her they were romantic rides as they were blue and pink. She only realised when she was being given her instructions and getting into an encased capsule. All ended well with just a few bruises.
Later there was the inevitable water party which the kids loved. They boogied away for about an hour. Lunch was quite nice and although prices are high here it is possible to feed a family of 5 with 3 meals. The meals came with bread and we bribed Julia with a Lira to go up and get a second plate.
Saturday, 18 August 2012
The Exodus South (Selcuk, Ephesus)
I'm sitting in front of a pool drinking a beer with a sexy woman next me. Just to my left, two young guys are playing pool. To the right they sit in front of the bar and behind me they are drinking and laughing, not sure of the language. We have made it to our accommodation at the Atilla Getaway.
The journey started in Istanbul at 8.30am. We were offered a ride to the ferry but the driver was obviously still sleeping and would not open his door. We walked the 2km with bags excited about the upcoming journey. The ferry was very modern and we had numbered seats. Very much like the fast ferry in NZ. We docked 1.75 hrs later at Mudanya about 30km west of Bursa where our rental awaited us.
Getting off the ferry was fine but then the fun began. It is never easy travelling around developing countries and we have learn't to roll with the punches. From here a taxi would cost at least 60 lira and I wanted to get closer. We asked at a shop and they directed us to a bus. We noticed they had tickets so went and queued at a counter. Ten minutes later we were back at the bus only to be told it was the wrong one. The right one was next door.
I put my bag on a seat and went to help Sue. In returning a woman with a baby was eyeing up our seat so I gave it to her and took a single. It was a good move, she gave Julia (on my lap) some chips and a drink and gave us directions later. Julia was on my lap after a man had moved her, as a woman required her seat.
Once off the bus at the Metro we caught a taxi to the rental company only 15 minutes away. This is where the fun started and I lost every time. It said on my form, full petrol return full, but the man was adamant that empty to empty. As you can imagine leaving a car empty of petrol is not easy to time unless you enjoy the taste. A heated argument ensued until I relented and he promised to reimburse us at the end. The GPS was twice the price advertised but was invaluable later.
Off we went following the GPS unquestioningly. All was well until we had left Bursa by about 20km. The traffic was bunked up and we bobbed along at 20-30km/hr for 30km. I had visions of arriving at Selcuk by midnight. However, our problems were caused by a faulty set of lights. The crazy part of this roading is that there are lights at every village along the way. They are on a system where green is set to the same time no matter which direction you are going in. So there we were, waiting with a large queue of traffic when no cars are coming from the green light side.
The roads are very good here and there are always two lanes in each directions and we made good time. We approached the big city of Izmur. We knew that we were going to take a major motorway to bypass it, but as we approached the GPS got cryptic and we took the wrong road. It is hard to imagine how fundamentally catastrophic this was until you have ventured into a major city in Turkey. We followed the new directions methodically, turning in all directions, as indicated by the GPS and 15 minutes later we were back on the motorway. I would hate to think what would have happened if we didn't have it.
We arrived at Selcuk at about 8.30pm and have almost slowed down to a stop. I'm not sure why people leave. It reminds me of a song. Where did I come from, aren't I suppose to be somewhere soon.
Anyway off to Ephesus tomorrow, maybe.
The journey started in Istanbul at 8.30am. We were offered a ride to the ferry but the driver was obviously still sleeping and would not open his door. We walked the 2km with bags excited about the upcoming journey. The ferry was very modern and we had numbered seats. Very much like the fast ferry in NZ. We docked 1.75 hrs later at Mudanya about 30km west of Bursa where our rental awaited us.
Getting off the ferry was fine but then the fun began. It is never easy travelling around developing countries and we have learn't to roll with the punches. From here a taxi would cost at least 60 lira and I wanted to get closer. We asked at a shop and they directed us to a bus. We noticed they had tickets so went and queued at a counter. Ten minutes later we were back at the bus only to be told it was the wrong one. The right one was next door.
I put my bag on a seat and went to help Sue. In returning a woman with a baby was eyeing up our seat so I gave it to her and took a single. It was a good move, she gave Julia (on my lap) some chips and a drink and gave us directions later. Julia was on my lap after a man had moved her, as a woman required her seat.
Once off the bus at the Metro we caught a taxi to the rental company only 15 minutes away. This is where the fun started and I lost every time. It said on my form, full petrol return full, but the man was adamant that empty to empty. As you can imagine leaving a car empty of petrol is not easy to time unless you enjoy the taste. A heated argument ensued until I relented and he promised to reimburse us at the end. The GPS was twice the price advertised but was invaluable later.
Off we went following the GPS unquestioningly. All was well until we had left Bursa by about 20km. The traffic was bunked up and we bobbed along at 20-30km/hr for 30km. I had visions of arriving at Selcuk by midnight. However, our problems were caused by a faulty set of lights. The crazy part of this roading is that there are lights at every village along the way. They are on a system where green is set to the same time no matter which direction you are going in. So there we were, waiting with a large queue of traffic when no cars are coming from the green light side.
The roads are very good here and there are always two lanes in each directions and we made good time. We approached the big city of Izmur. We knew that we were going to take a major motorway to bypass it, but as we approached the GPS got cryptic and we took the wrong road. It is hard to imagine how fundamentally catastrophic this was until you have ventured into a major city in Turkey. We followed the new directions methodically, turning in all directions, as indicated by the GPS and 15 minutes later we were back on the motorway. I would hate to think what would have happened if we didn't have it.
We arrived at Selcuk at about 8.30pm and have almost slowed down to a stop. I'm not sure why people leave. It reminds me of a song. Where did I come from, aren't I suppose to be somewhere soon.
Anyway off to Ephesus tomorrow, maybe.
Friday, 17 August 2012
Bosphorus Straight not to be missed
We almost missed this one. Having done the Princes Islands boat trip I wasn't that keen to spend another day on a ferry. However, having almost exhausted the possible Istanbul activities over the last two weeks we decided to take a ferry up and down the Bosphorus.
Getting around Istanbul can be very tricky if the destination is not along one of the Metro lines. I wasn't sure where the ferry started and google map doesn't always work because of local spelling. After reading various websites I worked out it was near the Galata Bridge a 40 min walk from here. Not too bad. We got there in good time and ignored the men trying to get us on more expensive private boats.
The Bosphorus had been described as a must see while in Istanbul and it lived up to expectation. There are a number of beautiful palaces up on either side of the straight. Two huge bridges in the fashion of the San Francisco Bridge traverse the expanse. A multitude of varying sized boats steam in all directions. Including a massive cargo ship under tug steering.
We stopped a number of times and in all it took 1.5hrs to make it to the small fishing village of Anadolu Kavagi. It reminded me of a Greek fishing village. We wandered through the village, the kids played in a park and we bought refreshments.
One of the highlights of the area is the remains of the Anadolu Kavagi (castle) build in Byzantine time. It is built onto the hill directly behind the village. It was described as a vigorous walk and lived up to its reputation.
The kids were hammered and I was pushing the stroller. However, it is amazing how reaching the top re-energised everyone. The view of the Black sea was enchanting and gave me ambition to return. There is plenty of history out there in it's expanse.
We returned to the village stopping only for a photo shoot instigated by a kind old dutch man. It also helped that it was in the shade. It was a really hot day.
It was such a relaxing day, no time pressure and plenty to see.
Getting around Istanbul can be very tricky if the destination is not along one of the Metro lines. I wasn't sure where the ferry started and google map doesn't always work because of local spelling. After reading various websites I worked out it was near the Galata Bridge a 40 min walk from here. Not too bad. We got there in good time and ignored the men trying to get us on more expensive private boats.
The Bosphorus had been described as a must see while in Istanbul and it lived up to expectation. There are a number of beautiful palaces up on either side of the straight. Two huge bridges in the fashion of the San Francisco Bridge traverse the expanse. A multitude of varying sized boats steam in all directions. Including a massive cargo ship under tug steering.
We stopped a number of times and in all it took 1.5hrs to make it to the small fishing village of Anadolu Kavagi. It reminded me of a Greek fishing village. We wandered through the village, the kids played in a park and we bought refreshments.
One of the highlights of the area is the remains of the Anadolu Kavagi (castle) build in Byzantine time. It is built onto the hill directly behind the village. It was described as a vigorous walk and lived up to its reputation.
We returned to the village stopping only for a photo shoot instigated by a kind old dutch man. It also helped that it was in the shade. It was a really hot day.
It was such a relaxing day, no time pressure and plenty to see.
Thursday, 16 August 2012
Finding the Aqueduct of Valens
Yesterday I went for a run at about 10am. I went for about
50 minutes and had a massive headache by the afternoon. That will teach me for re-hydrating myself with Coke Zero. Running through Istanbul is like running in the wild. Constantly watching for cars in all directions and making sure I didn't run into pedestrians. It was worth it though as I was in search of the Aqueduct of Valens. It was commissioned by Emperor Valens in AD 373. Apparently there were 400km of aqueducts at the time. They had 30 bridges and 100 cisterns.
There is only 200m left, but it is amazing. The area is hilly so they had to build a bridge over an expanse of about 80m. It must have been 30 meters high. The different lanes of a major road each use a different gap in the bridge. I was a bit gutted I couldn't get on it but had a great time running beside it trying to work out how.
That's me jumping between lanes just in front of the aqueduct.
50 minutes and had a massive headache by the afternoon. That will teach me for re-hydrating myself with Coke Zero. Running through Istanbul is like running in the wild. Constantly watching for cars in all directions and making sure I didn't run into pedestrians. It was worth it though as I was in search of the Aqueduct of Valens. It was commissioned by Emperor Valens in AD 373. Apparently there were 400km of aqueducts at the time. They had 30 bridges and 100 cisterns.
There is only 200m left, but it is amazing. The area is hilly so they had to build a bridge over an expanse of about 80m. It must have been 30 meters high. The different lanes of a major road each use a different gap in the bridge. I was a bit gutted I couldn't get on it but had a great time running beside it trying to work out how.
That's me jumping between lanes just in front of the aqueduct.
Wednesday, 15 August 2012
Ramadan Festivities
While we had been at the Blue Mosque a guy, who had told us many things about the building in the hope of selling us a carpet, had mentioned that on that evening there would be a light show and festival to mark Ramadan. We had heard this a number of times since getting to Istanbul but because of the time difference had never managed to get out late enough.
We wandered up towards the Hippodrome (the large open space in the old city). A queue had formed outside a kebab shop of locals. That seemed to be the place to go and 5 minutes later we had 6 chicken roles for just 18 lira. I couldn't believe the speed at which they were working and the volume of people they were getting through.
A temporary outdoor theatre had been erected. It looked like a stand for 500 but about 3000 squashed in to hear the formal speeches. We sat down behind the seating with many of the families and ate our tea. Halfway through we realised we were a little premature as absolutely no one else was eating.
There are five calls to prayer in Ramadan, the first at 4.30am as I frequently find out. Anyway at about 8.10pm there was a call and the eating was all on. We moved on into the main open area (the Sultan Ahmet Park). It was crowded like crazy. Families everywhere, so we decided to finish our dinner.
The Blue Mosque was all lit up and the water fountain gave a colourful display. At about 9.30pm the final call to prayer came and people started moving in all directions. Thousands headed into the mosques and other seemed to be heading home. It seems the whole city slows down in the evenings but never goes to sleep.
We wandered up towards the Hippodrome (the large open space in the old city). A queue had formed outside a kebab shop of locals. That seemed to be the place to go and 5 minutes later we had 6 chicken roles for just 18 lira. I couldn't believe the speed at which they were working and the volume of people they were getting through.
A temporary outdoor theatre had been erected. It looked like a stand for 500 but about 3000 squashed in to hear the formal speeches. We sat down behind the seating with many of the families and ate our tea. Halfway through we realised we were a little premature as absolutely no one else was eating.
There are five calls to prayer in Ramadan, the first at 4.30am as I frequently find out. Anyway at about 8.10pm there was a call and the eating was all on. We moved on into the main open area (the Sultan Ahmet Park). It was crowded like crazy. Families everywhere, so we decided to finish our dinner.
Tuesday, 14 August 2012
Blue Mosque and Archaeological Museum
Merhaba, (hello),
Todays itinerary includes BLUE MOSQUE, Archaeological museum, Burger King, housework, and return to Blue Mosque for evening light show.
Blue Mosque - Sultan Ahmet 1603-17 set out to build a monument that would rival the nearby Aya Sofya, it has similar architecture, but lacked the 'awe inspiring factor' which I felt at Aya Sofya. It still had a wham-bam effect because it is so well maintained. The blue tiles inside (tens of thousands of them) give the building its official name and the 260 windows are pretty WOW!
Museum - Istanbul boosts it is the European capital of culture, I am certainly enjoying all of the culture/history that is right at our door step. Today it was concentrated history...over 1 million pieces were on display they all carry traces of various periods and cultures in the world history.
The museum is made up of 3 units, museum of archaeology, the museum of the Ancient Orient and the museum of the tiled kiosk. Things that were memorable for me were the Sarcophagus of the mourning women unearthed in the excavation at the Royal Necropolis of Sidon. Portrait of Alexander the Great, sculpture artifacts recovered from the three marble cities of the Roman Era, Aphrodisias, Ephosos, and Miletos.
Very disappointed that the children's museum was closed... wanted the girls to have hands on experience and I wanted to see the re-make of the Trojan horse.
Henry spotted a 'young at heart group' with a tour guide he said "that will be us in 20 yrs, and that won't be far away!" Well we will have to do it again as the girls endurance faded quickly. I was carrying Holly around and Henry was coaching the big two. Do hope the next 20 years doesn't go too quickly however!
Its amazing how stepping into Burger King can quickly change the state of the girls ;)!! During lunch Henry asked Sophia "What do you want to be when you get older?" "An archaeologist, or scientist", "Mmm, ok, and Jules?" "tall enough to go on all of the big water slides!" After the muffled chuckles passed, to console both of us she added "a primary teacher and when I get better a maths teacher!" Mmmm thanks Jules! ;)
Back for a break and realising our apartment wouldn't get cleaned unless I did it, I swept, tidied and mopped, all with one tiny broom and a small cleaning towel.
When we are at home the kids watch t.v, create with their spira graphs which we bought on the street, make train/huts with the furniture and squabble. They have done some reading today and written some postcards. We have been writing a few over the past week for birthdays which we have missed etc, oops! I have been on the hunt for a post shop which has been a difficult task. Following the guidebook directions today led us to a deserted building. When I asked at a tourist information kiosk we were told the nearest was two tram stops away, Mmm bother! I had discovered it would cost 3 Lira per postcard so have been on the hunt for an envelope which I found today yeah! Hoping to send a pile to Doortje and getting her to be the postie.
I decided I would go to the neighbouring hotel to see if they provided a postal service, they do but wanted to open my envelope, I was really against that as I had had to go to a lot of trouble to find an envelope and then sellotape to seal it. I was told it could be 15 Lira to send and that if I returned in the morning they would do it for me. Eventually I managed to get directions from the hotel staff to the closest post office, it was no more then 50 metres away!!!I posted my envelopes with 6+ postcards inside for 3Lira.
When ever I am out the back of our apartment hanging out washing there is something new to see. Today it was men hanging in the tree trying to pick some fruit. He was a grown man and it was a drop of about 15m onto a concrete patio.
Off to find tea and light show at the mosque.
XS.
Todays itinerary includes BLUE MOSQUE, Archaeological museum, Burger King, housework, and return to Blue Mosque for evening light show.
Blue Mosque - Sultan Ahmet 1603-17 set out to build a monument that would rival the nearby Aya Sofya, it has similar architecture, but lacked the 'awe inspiring factor' which I felt at Aya Sofya. It still had a wham-bam effect because it is so well maintained. The blue tiles inside (tens of thousands of them) give the building its official name and the 260 windows are pretty WOW!
Museum - Istanbul boosts it is the European capital of culture, I am certainly enjoying all of the culture/history that is right at our door step. Today it was concentrated history...over 1 million pieces were on display they all carry traces of various periods and cultures in the world history.
The museum is made up of 3 units, museum of archaeology, the museum of the Ancient Orient and the museum of the tiled kiosk. Things that were memorable for me were the Sarcophagus of the mourning women unearthed in the excavation at the Royal Necropolis of Sidon. Portrait of Alexander the Great, sculpture artifacts recovered from the three marble cities of the Roman Era, Aphrodisias, Ephosos, and Miletos.
Very disappointed that the children's museum was closed... wanted the girls to have hands on experience and I wanted to see the re-make of the Trojan horse.
Henry spotted a 'young at heart group' with a tour guide he said "that will be us in 20 yrs, and that won't be far away!" Well we will have to do it again as the girls endurance faded quickly. I was carrying Holly around and Henry was coaching the big two. Do hope the next 20 years doesn't go too quickly however!
Its amazing how stepping into Burger King can quickly change the state of the girls ;)!! During lunch Henry asked Sophia "What do you want to be when you get older?" "An archaeologist, or scientist", "Mmm, ok, and Jules?" "tall enough to go on all of the big water slides!" After the muffled chuckles passed, to console both of us she added "a primary teacher and when I get better a maths teacher!" Mmmm thanks Jules! ;)
Back for a break and realising our apartment wouldn't get cleaned unless I did it, I swept, tidied and mopped, all with one tiny broom and a small cleaning towel.
When we are at home the kids watch t.v, create with their spira graphs which we bought on the street, make train/huts with the furniture and squabble. They have done some reading today and written some postcards. We have been writing a few over the past week for birthdays which we have missed etc, oops! I have been on the hunt for a post shop which has been a difficult task. Following the guidebook directions today led us to a deserted building. When I asked at a tourist information kiosk we were told the nearest was two tram stops away, Mmm bother! I had discovered it would cost 3 Lira per postcard so have been on the hunt for an envelope which I found today yeah! Hoping to send a pile to Doortje and getting her to be the postie.
I decided I would go to the neighbouring hotel to see if they provided a postal service, they do but wanted to open my envelope, I was really against that as I had had to go to a lot of trouble to find an envelope and then sellotape to seal it. I was told it could be 15 Lira to send and that if I returned in the morning they would do it for me. Eventually I managed to get directions from the hotel staff to the closest post office, it was no more then 50 metres away!!!I posted my envelopes with 6+ postcards inside for 3Lira.
When ever I am out the back of our apartment hanging out washing there is something new to see. Today it was men hanging in the tree trying to pick some fruit. He was a grown man and it was a drop of about 15m onto a concrete patio.
Off to find tea and light show at the mosque.
XS.
Monday, 13 August 2012
Aqua Club Dolphin - don't forget the Lonely Planet book
Before you are concerned let me say that we deliberately went on a day when the Dolphin section was closed. We wouldn't condone enclosed dolphins performing tricks for human entertainment. Overall the rest of the park is great and basically a large water park.
If you are planning on going be aware. It is hard to get there unless you are happy to pay heaps on taxis or understand how the Turkish buses work. We tried unsuccessfully. The entry price is cheap and our family entered for just 53Lira but all food and water was confiscated and the prices inside are a little high and the menu limited. It is virtually impossible to get info online as it is only in Turkish. Most long rides are restricted to 10 years or older. They always ask but it is easy to lie a little.
The park is located about 40Km west of the old city so we ventured out early at about 8am. We caught the metro and headed along the coast for about 15 stops until we reached its end at Halkali. It was marked as a train station but was more of a train yard. It was difficult to work out how pedestrians get out of there. Eventually we made it out onto a main road with cars zipping by. Luckily a taxi saw us and hooted for our attention.
I had read about Taxis in Istanbul the night before. They either pretend the meter does not work, or drive the long way or not give you your bags unless you give them a tip. We must have been very lucky as both of ours took us directly without hassle, or at least tried. The first one was so good that when he took the wrong road he reversed up an off ramp the wrong way. At least the taxi was facing in the right direction.
The park itself was awesome. There were five main swimming pools including a large kids pool with various slides. Unfortunately it was also the coldest pool but Holly did not seem to care. She spent most of the day there.
I keep harking on about it but it is part of our experience to watch different people interacting with Holly. She was given a chocolate bar and a chocolate egg today. There were two life guards on at the kids pool, one at the top of the slide and one at the bottom. The girl at the bottom would blow her whistle and point for kids to move away from the bottom of the slide. As I had been sitting and watching, Holly had been going down the slide for some time. She started to move away toward the smaller slides on the other side of the pool. When she was about 15 meters away the girl blew her
It was all going well until he said "motorway", I said "no" but eventually changed my mind. By the time we got off we were miles out of the way. We stopped aimlessly to ask for directions. The meter was running and things were going bad. There was another metro running from the airport so I went with this more obvious location. It was a more expensive second option but far better than paying him well over a hundred lira to run us into the old city. The metro was crowded again but people here are very tolerant. Our moods improved rapidly when as we were walking to our apartment an old man offered Holly a chocolate bar out of no where. The trip home took 2hrs but its all part of the adventure. It was nice sitting on the tram watching endless buses and cars going no where in bumper to bumper traffic as we cruised by.
If you are planning on going be aware. It is hard to get there unless you are happy to pay heaps on taxis or understand how the Turkish buses work. We tried unsuccessfully. The entry price is cheap and our family entered for just 53Lira but all food and water was confiscated and the prices inside are a little high and the menu limited. It is virtually impossible to get info online as it is only in Turkish. Most long rides are restricted to 10 years or older. They always ask but it is easy to lie a little.
The park is located about 40Km west of the old city so we ventured out early at about 8am. We caught the metro and headed along the coast for about 15 stops until we reached its end at Halkali. It was marked as a train station but was more of a train yard. It was difficult to work out how pedestrians get out of there. Eventually we made it out onto a main road with cars zipping by. Luckily a taxi saw us and hooted for our attention.
I had read about Taxis in Istanbul the night before. They either pretend the meter does not work, or drive the long way or not give you your bags unless you give them a tip. We must have been very lucky as both of ours took us directly without hassle, or at least tried. The first one was so good that when he took the wrong road he reversed up an off ramp the wrong way. At least the taxi was facing in the right direction.
The park itself was awesome. There were five main swimming pools including a large kids pool with various slides. Unfortunately it was also the coldest pool but Holly did not seem to care. She spent most of the day there.
I keep harking on about it but it is part of our experience to watch different people interacting with Holly. She was given a chocolate bar and a chocolate egg today. There were two life guards on at the kids pool, one at the top of the slide and one at the bottom. The girl at the bottom would blow her whistle and point for kids to move away from the bottom of the slide. As I had been sitting and watching, Holly had been going down the slide for some time. She started to move away toward the smaller slides on the other side of the pool. When she was about 15 meters away the girl blew her
whistle and pointed for Holly to come back to her. She came over and went up again to the joy of the young man (life guard) who always made a fuss of her as she went back on the slide. Its like every body recognises her as something special and we just can't see it. But when you see photos like the one below maybe they are all right.
Anyway Sophs, Julia and I went on most of the big sides. Julia couldn't do them all as you had to be 10. My favourite was a very high ramp. You start at the top on a donut and fly down and up like on a half pipe skateboard ramp. Sophs didn't do this one.
As we were leaving and moving down through the various pools we came across what you could only call a pool disco. With loud music and dancing on a stage foam was being sprayed out as a DJ hyped up the crowd. Sophia and Julia joined in. It was quite cool and not really what I expected to find in a majority Islamic country.
We had made one major error on this day in not bringing our guide book. I didn't know the name of the last metro stop and it could not be seen from the road side. We were supposed to get a taxi back there. We decided to try the buses instead. We were given rough directions for the bus stop from the park people and headed out. On the way we found a taxi stand and tried to ask them. It was hopeless. We carried on to the bus stop and asked where the bus went. They said Taksim which I should have known but could not remember under the pressure. Still it was about 10km from where we were staying. After a great deal of confused conversation we wondered back to the taxi stand. I drew a bad map of Istanbul with the airport, Blue Mosque and where the metro started. The four guys had no idea. I even got Sophia to draw a train. Anyway it was decided that he would drive and I would give him directions, yeah that's a winner!!!It was all going well until he said "motorway", I said "no" but eventually changed my mind. By the time we got off we were miles out of the way. We stopped aimlessly to ask for directions. The meter was running and things were going bad. There was another metro running from the airport so I went with this more obvious location. It was a more expensive second option but far better than paying him well over a hundred lira to run us into the old city. The metro was crowded again but people here are very tolerant. Our moods improved rapidly when as we were walking to our apartment an old man offered Holly a chocolate bar out of no where. The trip home took 2hrs but its all part of the adventure. It was nice sitting on the tram watching endless buses and cars going no where in bumper to bumper traffic as we cruised by.
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