Friday, 19 July 2013

A World Of Wonder - Grand Canyon & Walnut Canyon

From the moment we arrived in the Grand Canyon Forest Reserve we were enveloped in the splendor of one of the world's most beautiful wonders.

 We parked up at Mather Point. It is one of the South Rim's premier overlooks and then caught a shuttle to the start of our trail of choice South Kaibab Trailhead. We walked down as far as Ooh Aah Point before turning around and trudging back up. The walk captured an inspiring landscape as it wove its way down. 


South Rim - South Kaibab Trail


It kind of overwhelms all of your senses.(My grasp of Hollys hand was causing us both to sweat!) Sheer cliffs greeted anyone who slipped over the edge with no railing.




After our hiking effort we went into the Grand Canyon Visitor Centre and relaxed in the air con watching the park film Grand Canyon: A Journey of Wonder.
Its story tells of geologic processes played out over unimaginable time spans as a unique combination of size, colour, and dazzling erosional forms: 446 river kms long, up to 29km wide, and 1.6km deep. Its rugged landscape hosts a fascinating variety of plant and animal communities. From the desert next to the Colorado River deep in the canyon to montane forests atop its North Rim it is also home to five Native American tribes; Hopi, Navajo, Havasupai, Pauite and Hualapai.


Me and my dad, oh and the Grand Canyon!

Trail blazers, explorers and tour guides.
As we travel there is a fine balance of wanting to see as much as possible but also managing every ones needs. This is not always easy to juggle. We decided we would try to squeeze in a little more before returning to the comfort of our room and swimming pool.

We cruised along the rim passing various view points. We stopped at the Desert View Watchtower for a quick look. The tower 
Desert View Lookout
provides fantastic views of the Painted Desert. From the car we got an expansive perspective, it is hard to see anything but a harshly spectacular and ruggedly beautiful landscape. Man made structures are often hard to spot because they have such a minimal footprint on the canyon's grandeur.


Later we drove back to Flag Staff and detoured to the Walnut Canyon National Monument. This was really fascinating as the Sinagua tribe lived there between 1100 and 1250. We were warped back in time to see how this small Indian community/tribe lived.


We walked a trail and discovered the many cliff dwellings and the plants that grow precariously there. We cited the cacti plants we had been searching for. 





The visitor centre had lots of static displays which were really educational. Models of Indian living etc.

Another day of adventure, another day of sun, heat, hours in the car. All in need of a good nights sleep. Hope all is well in your patch of the world.




Thursday, 18 July 2013

Hoover Dam and Meteor Crater

I had hoped today would be a little shorter but with the vast distances in this country and stopovers never being short we are finding little down time.

Luckily we managed to leave early again 8.30am. Hoover Dam is
located not far from Las Vegas and we parked up after less than an hour. The run into the dam is quite beautiful with the man made Lake Mead appearing out of the dry rocky scene. 



Its a short walk from the official car park to the dam and visitors center. They showed us an informative movie of how and why it was made way back in the 1930's and then take you down into the power generation area with the massive turbines. Apparently the lift took us down 70 stories as the dam itself is 220m tall. In typical American misinformation they were at pains to explain the environmental master piece of the construction. Only later have I read about the devastation of the animal and plant life at the delta when they virtually blocked off all river flow to build up Lake Mead. Ignorance is bliss I suppose.

Walking on the dam itself is free and just past it is free parking. It gave a sense of the vastness of the construction and the beauty of the surrounding cavern. Not to be missed is a walk along the inter state bridge well above the dam. It gives amazing views of the whole area. 

It was a very long drive from the dam to where we were staying in Flagstaff Arizona. Fast driving though with the very straight inter state allowing 75miles/hr. Four hours later we arrived but only stopped to get our keys before continuing on another 40 miles to the Meteor Crater.


Now this place is impressive. A 1200m wide and 170m deep. We just sat there awestruck and enjoyed the vista. Initially scientists had thought it was volcanic and they couldn't find the meteor. But apparently is was made by a rock the size of two buses, not very large considering the devastation  When it hit it mostly burnt up having been traveling at 20km/second. Only fragments were found.

It was back to Flagstaff next and a quick swim in their pool before tea and bed. I had been concerned about a number of our accommodations because of some of the bad reviews. However, between nice beds, cable T.V., free wifi and breakfast what do people expect. How far can $65US a night go? We have found the staff really friendly where ever we have been.

Tuesday, 16 July 2013

Chilling out in Las Vegas

We had thoughts of going to a couple of National Parks around Las Vegas but decided against it as we were really tired. Instead we slept in, chilled out and headed to the strip just before noon. 

The main boulevards are so wide, up to four lanes wide. They create a perpendicular grid and are surprisingly frequent. You would think that the simplest things like buying groceries and petrol would go easily, but not so. You have to prepay for the petrol (no guessing why) and between lbs and club cards supermarket shopping is messy. The groceries are also noticeably more expensive here than the UK. However, we are happy with this adjustment as the whole place is so chilled out.

 The first thing our kids noticed as we approached the strip was the working roller coaster. It certainly is the entertainment capital of the world. It's hard to see anyone getting bored here. Just for convenience the main international airport is no less than one kilometer from the strip. Arrive and away you go.


We parked in a building and immediately entered what was the M&M building floor 4. A dancing M&M, OK and whats more three other floors of the same M&M merchandise. They did show a free 3D movie and it was actually really good.

After some time we departed and just wandered down the strip, cool. It was hot though so we headed across the street and into the New York - New York Hotel and Casino where the roller coaster was located. Julia was on tippie toes but just wasn't tall enough so we gave the coaster away. Its immense in these places. From where we entered there were a number of shops and food outlets. Then we went down an escalator onto the main casino level. It was like a massive cavern, 
maybe 100 meters square with no pillars holding anything up. To
one side there was an alley with more restaurants. The main area was full of slot machines. The poker tables looked the most authentic and even the roulette wheel was electronic.


We found the arcade area and indulged the kids. Holly enjoyed shooting spiders from a jeep.

Time was flying so we made our last stop the Excalibur Hotel and Casino. Like most things in this place it was extravagantly made. For us a chance to eat ice creams. We are not learning though. Small here is bigger than medium at home. Needless to say I had to finish off plenty of ice cream. We had the same problem at McD's and for the first time in my life left food behind. Unfortunately the effects are noticeable on most locals waistlines.   

Goodbye Northop Hall Part II

Sara, Annie, Dee, Ang, P.T.A members A Dee?! Lovely mid week lunch THANKS Ang!!! (my long lost Welsh relative)

Sasha, Soph, Jules, and Jasmine

Julas, Jessica and Rose

Good mates, Holly and Alan

Julia, William and McKenzie

Jules and Macca

Sharon, Sue and Sarah (Sarah and I were born within 2 days of each other!)

Goodbye, until we see each other again!

Goodbye Northop Hall



Thank you Northop Hall School Community

The girls shared a little of N.Z during a sharing assembly. Sophia is doing a poi demo to Poi e
Full school assembly
To the families, teachers, staff of Northop Hall, we would like to say a heartfelt thank you. My family and I have been here for two weeks short of a year. We came to Wales as part of an ‘exchange’. My husband has done a job swap. It was really by chance that we ended up being part of your community. The fact that this happened has been a highlight of the whole experience. We just love Northop Hall school, it has a dedicated team of staff, supportive parents and wonderful children that have embraced our girls. Our girls have been so happy here and will REALLY miss their new friends. We are grateful for your part in making the experience so memorable. We will go home with fond memories of the U.K, and will never forget the generous, friendly, warm hearted Northop Hall community.
Lovely girls
Kind regards,
Sue, Henry, Sophia, Julia, Holly Kersten

This is what we posted into the school newsletter. The last days in Northop Hall were really hard, so  hard for us to say goodbye!

Shared bring your own picnic on last day at school


Sharon, Emlyn, Sophia, Lucia and Isobella. Holly's childminder family.

Monday, 15 July 2013

Death Valley and whats with Pahrump

It was another early start this morning although the effects of the jetlag are starting to wear off. We were up at 6am and off by 7.30am. 


It was another cruise down the Owen's Valley before turning off the double carriage way and heading into the Death Valley area. The roads were straight and easy. After the UK experience this is more our style with little traffic and at times no cars as far as the eye can see, yeeaaahhhhh!



As we were driving along we saw a strange tree about 100m off the road. So we parked up and went in pursuit of answers hoping it was a cactus. Being a little nervous we checked in all directions for Spiders, snakes and scorpions. After a close inspection we decided it was a yukka and as yet have still not found the allusive cactus; where are they?

After two and a half hours we dropped down into the valley itself. We popped into a general store at Stovepot Wells, and wow it was hot!!! The thermometer in front of the shop read 116F.

We drove off the main road up to the hills and parked outside Mosaic Canyon. We walked for about 40 minutes. Come on, why wouldn't you? I've watched way to many westerns to miss this opportunity. It was a classical narrow canyon weaving its way up into the hills. Julia struggled badly in the extreme heat and we did start to get worried. I ended up carrying her out with Sue carrying Holly. They loved it and after more water were good to go again.


Next we wandered a little down the valley until we reached Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes. They were surprisingly large considering where they were located. We wandered in a little way but not for long and some of us were wilting quickly. More of a put on than for real. 

The parks head quarter are located at Furnace Creek; great name.
Another 30 miles and further down the valley. What we couldn't believe was the race going on. Come on, I thought I was hard out, but thats just nuts. We cheered them all enthusiastically as they went past. Even a couple from New Zealand. 


The visitors centre was really good, not to mention air-conditioned. Really informative about the area with a large display area. Hard to get away really. In the village another thermostat showed 122F. The kids didn't join me going to the shop and were starting to lose their enthusiasm to follow me anywhere. Its weird really 50C. Hot, but easily tolerated for short periods. Death Valley has the hottest temperatures in the world. It's a dry heat though which makes it much easier to cope with. 

The reason it is so hot apart from being inland, surrounded by
mountains, is that it is below sea level, reaching 282 feet below at Badwater Basin. There was the wind blowing though surprisingly strong and so hot. It was hotter than standing in the sun but out of the wind. Like you had this hair dryer which worked really well in your face all the time. We checked out the salt and moved on quickly. We did check out the Devils Golf Course and a lookout but no time for describing those now.


Oh the hijinks in the back seat! Hollys impersonation of Peppa Pig!
We headed out of the park and towards Las Vegas at great rate of knots. Halfway there we dropped down into a valley and through a town called Pahrump. What the hell? There are over 30000 people here but where are they hiding. It took about six miles to drive through the place. You would get a collection of half a dozen houses along a street and then nothing else. It was like that all over the place. It was as if they had decided this was going to be the next Las Vegas and divided up a massive area for a huge city and just told people to choose random sections. The long main street was very similar. There are a large number of shops etc but fields behind them. Strangest thing I've ever seen.

Our accommodation in Vegas is great. We have an apartment at the Siena Suites and managed to get an evening swim in. Holly was none to pleased to leave the pool, probably because it is the only way to keep cool outdoors.


Sunday, 14 July 2013

Yosemite National Park and our first USA day on the road


Its hard to describe the amazing day we have had today. It was certainly long but how else do you fit so much in. Taking advantage of jet-lag we left our motel in Modesto at 6.40am. We headed East through the flat lands and towards the Yosemite National Park. We hit our first major climb and were impressed to see a sign saying "Elevation 2000 feet". 

This paled in comparison to the over 9000 feet we were to climb by the end of the day. Its amazing to think that that Mt Cook is only a little over 12000 feet, highest mountain in New Zealand.






 The roads were really steep and had speeding limits of 35 miles/hr at times. But some of the vistas we saw as we approached made it all worth while.







We didn't arrive at Yosemite valley until 9.30am. We made a quick stop to take a couple of shots from the valley floor before hoping to beat the masses by walking the very popular walk Lower Yosmite Waterfall Hike first. 

Its a very pleasant walk through the native trees before coming up towards the lower of the two falls. Naturally the girls were exploring every nook and cranny on the way, often clambering over huge boulders. The track stops about 50m from the waterfall so we decided to head up through the creak bed picking our way as best as we could. There were plenty of others to follow and Julia and Sophia seemed happy with our endevour. 



The jumping was well worth it as the pool at the top was tranquil. It just felt nice to paddle our feet in the cool water. The temperature even at this altitude was over 30°C.



The second walk we decided to take was to Artist Point. Its not a major and was more steep and rugged. In fact it wasn't sign posted on the road and we had to ask a couple of people for directions. It zig zagged its way up the east side of the valley rising a couple of hundred meters in no time. Once there we looked, stunned, across the whole valley. Totally breath taking.

By the time we had again returned to the car it was going past 1pm and we still had a long way to get to our destination of Big Pine. The highway wound higher into the mountains reaching an altitude of 9,941 feet at Tioga Pass the highest road pass in the Seirra Nevada. Again the driving is slow with speed limits only going up to 50 miles/hr on few occasions. It does give a great chance to view the scenery.

Before reaching the pass we stopped at Lake Tenaya, where the kids went for a swim and we marveled at the scenery again. It was hard to remember that we were so high and yet still to have such a large lake.


The road rapidly descended and after just 10 miles we were down into Owen's Valley still very high by our reckoning. The highway was double laned and headed straight down the valley. Now that was the type of space we had missed in the UK. I love these roads. We found a country radio station and cruised down into Big Pine. The views on the way were just stunning. Could be a hot one tomorrow though, as when we pulled in we spotted a temperature gauge indicating 100°F.